Treadmill Guide: Understanding the Jargon
[ The Hardware ]
Click to enlarge (NordicTrack T8.5S)
'It's easier to buy a car than a treadmill.' That's what one of our visitors said when they contacted us for help. And we can appreciate their confusion, because there is so much choice when you can spend anything from $300 to almost $10,000 on a running machine.
So do you go for a 3.0 HP motor, or a 2.0 CHP? What's the difference? Which one is better? And should I go AC or DC?
Do you need a model that has BlueTooth? Pre-set programs? Heart rate sensors? And what the heck is a virtual personal trainer?
All these options are available, but are they important? Should you spend extra to get them?
Here, we'll explain all the jargon, what various whistles and bells do, so hopefully we can help you make the correct decision.
So do you go for a 3.0 HP motor, or a 2.0 CHP? What's the difference? Which one is better? And should I go AC or DC?
Do you need a model that has BlueTooth? Pre-set programs? Heart rate sensors? And what the heck is a virtual personal trainer?
All these options are available, but are they important? Should you spend extra to get them?
Here, we'll explain all the jargon, what various whistles and bells do, so hopefully we can help you make the correct decision.
This page deals with the hardware, the nuts and bolts if you wish, the software, or computer stuff is explained here >>>
The Motor
The all-important motor
The motor drives the belt that replicates the running motion - so it's pretty important :0) The more powerful the motor, the faster it can make the belt go, the higher the maximum speed of the machine. Generally you'll see anything from 6 mph to 12 mph on home machines - although top commercial treadmills can reach up to 25 mph! But unless you're an elite athlete, you really don't need that kind of speed.
The average jogging pace is around 7.5 mph (that's approx 8 minutes a mile). But it's best to have a model that can do 10 to 12 mph, as this is good for High Intensity-Interval Training (HIIT), plus if the motor can handle 12 mph, it will comfortably manage 8 - 10 mph with getting hot, and it will last longer.
Treadmill motors are rated by how much power they deliver in horse power - that's why you see HP after a number. However, just to confuse matters, you'll also see CHP. So, what's the difference?
For example:
a) 2.0 HP - this motor will deliver a maximum of 2 horse power, but note, that may be only for short periods.
b) 2.0 CHP - the 'C' means continuous. So this motor will happily drive the belt with the power of two horses for long periods at a time.
In the example above, (b) will be a more reliable motor, and will last longer. You'll also see terms such as 'Peak Duty' - that's as it sounds and means the number quoted is the highest (peak) it can deliver. Then there's 'Continuous Duty' - as it sounds, the horse power it can generate throughout your workout.
So, you may see a motor listed as 2.5 HP Continuous Duty - this is the same as CHP.
But don't go on the numbers alone. A 2,0 CHP motor on a $1,500 treadmill will inevitably be superior to one on a $500 machine, as the motor makes up quite a bit of the cost of production.
Here's a quick check for the best motor for your needs. But remember... this is a little sensitive, the heavier you are, the more powerful motor you'll need because the motor needs to shift the belt while your foot is on it, therefore it will be moving you. If the belt slows, or the motor whines on foot contact, it ,may be struggling with your weight. That's why it's best to check the maximum user weight capacity before buying - you could also invalidate the warranty if you exceed this.
If you're using the treadmill for walking, a 1.5 CHP motor will be adequate.
If you're going to jog (approx 6 mph to 8 mph), you should go for 2.0 CHP at the least.
If you're looking to run fast or even sprint (over 10 mph), then you'll need 2.5 CHP, preferably higher if your budget runs to it.
Some models come with 1.0 HP, but it's best to avoid unless it's for light use and for walking only.
The average jogging pace is around 7.5 mph (that's approx 8 minutes a mile). But it's best to have a model that can do 10 to 12 mph, as this is good for High Intensity-Interval Training (HIIT), plus if the motor can handle 12 mph, it will comfortably manage 8 - 10 mph with getting hot, and it will last longer.
Treadmill motors are rated by how much power they deliver in horse power - that's why you see HP after a number. However, just to confuse matters, you'll also see CHP. So, what's the difference?
For example:
a) 2.0 HP - this motor will deliver a maximum of 2 horse power, but note, that may be only for short periods.
b) 2.0 CHP - the 'C' means continuous. So this motor will happily drive the belt with the power of two horses for long periods at a time.
In the example above, (b) will be a more reliable motor, and will last longer. You'll also see terms such as 'Peak Duty' - that's as it sounds and means the number quoted is the highest (peak) it can deliver. Then there's 'Continuous Duty' - as it sounds, the horse power it can generate throughout your workout.
So, you may see a motor listed as 2.5 HP Continuous Duty - this is the same as CHP.
But don't go on the numbers alone. A 2,0 CHP motor on a $1,500 treadmill will inevitably be superior to one on a $500 machine, as the motor makes up quite a bit of the cost of production.
Here's a quick check for the best motor for your needs. But remember... this is a little sensitive, the heavier you are, the more powerful motor you'll need because the motor needs to shift the belt while your foot is on it, therefore it will be moving you. If the belt slows, or the motor whines on foot contact, it ,may be struggling with your weight. That's why it's best to check the maximum user weight capacity before buying - you could also invalidate the warranty if you exceed this.
If you're using the treadmill for walking, a 1.5 CHP motor will be adequate.
If you're going to jog (approx 6 mph to 8 mph), you should go for 2.0 CHP at the least.
If you're looking to run fast or even sprint (over 10 mph), then you'll need 2.5 CHP, preferably higher if your budget runs to it.
Some models come with 1.0 HP, but it's best to avoid unless it's for light use and for walking only.
AC/DC?
No, not the band :0) Does it matter if the motor is alternating current (AC) or direct current (DC)? The majority of home treadmills are DC as they use less power, are quieter, and generally deliver a smooth drive. AC motors, used mainly in commercial treadmills, last longer, but are usually noisier and more hungry for power.
We occasionally get email about DIY upgrades to gain higher speeds, but unless you know what you're doing, we don't advise it. And even if you do, often the treadmill's software system would not work with a different motor to the one it is programmed for.
We occasionally get email about DIY upgrades to gain higher speeds, but unless you know what you're doing, we don't advise it. And even if you do, often the treadmill's software system would not work with a different motor to the one it is programmed for.
Running Belt/Path
One of the main benefits of treadmill training is the running belt. It's flat and even with no holes, cracks or edges you can trip over. The deck beneath the belt is also cushioned to absorb the impact, therefore kinder to your knees and joints than tarmac and concrete. But what should you look for in the belt?
Size is important! The lower priced treadmills tend to have narrower and shorter belts. Before buying, check out the dimensions of the running surface. Some are as small as 13.5" x 39". Measure this out on the floor and ask yourself if you'd feel comfortable running on such a restricted area. It's common to travel sideways when running fast, or if you get a little behind the speed, you'd quickly find yourself running out of belt with the unfortunate consequence of tripping and falling flat on your face! If it's for just walking, this isn't such an issue.
Spending more will get you a treadmill with a wider and longer belt, many will be around 20" x 58". This gives more confidence when running at speed, plus you can take a drink, use the console, or even look out of the window, without having to worry about losing your footing.
Size is important! The lower priced treadmills tend to have narrower and shorter belts. Before buying, check out the dimensions of the running surface. Some are as small as 13.5" x 39". Measure this out on the floor and ask yourself if you'd feel comfortable running on such a restricted area. It's common to travel sideways when running fast, or if you get a little behind the speed, you'd quickly find yourself running out of belt with the unfortunate consequence of tripping and falling flat on your face! If it's for just walking, this isn't such an issue.
Spending more will get you a treadmill with a wider and longer belt, many will be around 20" x 58". This gives more confidence when running at speed, plus you can take a drink, use the console, or even look out of the window, without having to worry about losing your footing.
Emergency Stop/ Safety Clip
Ever worried about falling over on your treadmill and being dumped unceremoniously off the back of the deck? While you could sustain an injury, most fear making a complete fool of themselves in a gym. But you could get a nasty friction burn if the belt kept moving beneath your helpless, prone body - not nice, eh. So, the bods in the fitness world developed two features you'll find on the majority of treadmills. The emergency stop button (invariably red), and the safety-clip - see photo. You won't need instructions to operate the button, just slam your hand on it if you think you're about to keel over. The safety-clip is also pretty obvious. You simply clip it somewhere on your person where you won't catch it with your hands, then if you slip, the clip pings off and the belt stops.
Running Deck/ Cushioning
Rebound Deck Cushioning System from Nautilus
Softly, softly. As mentioned above, cushioning is a great advantage of treadmill. But there's q wide variation in types of absorption used. With anything, the more you spend, the more you'll get. Cushioning on budget models is basic but still preferable to the road for most.
Whereas with brands like Horizon Fitness, Life Fitness and Nautilus, you get much more. These models have responsive decks beneath the belt that, as the name suggests, responds to your foot plant to not only cushion, but to assist your kick-off. Some say this can spoil you for running on the road, but I happily switch from one to the other and can't say I've suffered.
Many treadmills have decks that can be folded up so they take up less space when not in use.
Whereas with brands like Horizon Fitness, Life Fitness and Nautilus, you get much more. These models have responsive decks beneath the belt that, as the name suggests, responds to your foot plant to not only cushion, but to assist your kick-off. Some say this can spoil you for running on the road, but I happily switch from one to the other and can't say I've suffered.
Many treadmills have decks that can be folded up so they take up less space when not in use.
Speed & Incline
One-touch/ toggle speed controls - circled in ref
I've talked about speed under the 'Motor' section above. so here we'll look at the control of speed and incline. Once you start spending over $500 on a treadmill, the majority will have two options of manually controlling the speed. One-touch buttons allow you to select the speed without toggling up through the mph is very useful. Instead of 5 clicks to get you from 6 to 11 mph, you just press the '11' button and the belt will increase speed. Many machines also have toggle controls on the handrail for both speed and incline.
The incline replicates hills and is very useful for building stamina and burning up calories. For example, running a mile on a 5% incline burns 20% more calories than a mile on the flat. As with speed, most treadmills have both one-touch buttons on the console, and/or toggle on the handrail.
Pre-set programs are great if you don't want to fiddle about with adjust speed and incline as these will automatically adjust both, depending on what type of workout. But note, budget models will generally have manual incline setting only, so you have to get off to change it, or select the incline before your session.
When you get further up the treadmill chain, some come with negative incline settings to replicate downhill running. If you're also an outdoor runner, this can be useful to help train for the downhill runs.
The incline replicates hills and is very useful for building stamina and burning up calories. For example, running a mile on a 5% incline burns 20% more calories than a mile on the flat. As with speed, most treadmills have both one-touch buttons on the console, and/or toggle on the handrail.
Pre-set programs are great if you don't want to fiddle about with adjust speed and incline as these will automatically adjust both, depending on what type of workout. But note, budget models will generally have manual incline setting only, so you have to get off to change it, or select the incline before your session.
When you get further up the treadmill chain, some come with negative incline settings to replicate downhill running. If you're also an outdoor runner, this can be useful to help train for the downhill runs.
Heart Rate Sensors
Angled grips on Horizon Fitness 7.8 AT
Most models come with hand grips, either on a bar beneath the console, or on the handrails. The accuracy may not be 100% but you can get an acceptable readout to check your pulse. However, it can take up to 10 seconds to measure, and therefore interrupt your rhythm if you have to hang on to the grips.
The best type is wireless heart rate monitoring that's compatible with a chest strap. This allows the computer can constantly measure your heart rate as you're running. This is great when the computer includes heart rate training programs where the computer can adjust speed or incline to keep your pulse at an optimum level for improving fitness, or for weight loss.
The best type is wireless heart rate monitoring that's compatible with a chest strap. This allows the computer can constantly measure your heart rate as you're running. This is great when the computer includes heart rate training programs where the computer can adjust speed or incline to keep your pulse at an optimum level for improving fitness, or for weight loss.
Other features you commonly find on a treadmill include:
If you have any questions about something we've not covered here, please contact us.
- Cooling fans, usually housed in or under the console.
- Device holders for your iPad.
- Built-in speakers
- Emergency stop button (always red), or clip that attaches to your wrist - both will automatically stop the belt when activated.
- Bottle holders - but don't overdo the drinking while training.
- Handrails to steady yourself if necessary - many will also have additional controls or heart rate grips.
- Transport wheels sited at the front so it can be tipped up and wheeled away.
- Leveling support feet - it's important the treadmill is level when in use.
If you have any questions about something we've not covered here, please contact us.
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